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Motorcheck Mechanics – Free Expert Advice From Ireland’s Leading Motor Mechanics

Expert Advice from a Motorcheck Main Dealer Mechanic
Posted by Shane Teskey on 1 October 2009 in Motorcheck Mechanic

Motorcheck is delighted to introduce our panel of ‘Motorcheck Mechanics’. A selection of Ireland’s top mechanics has been specially selected by Motorcheck.ie to answer all of your mechanical and technical questions.

If you’re wondering what that crunching noise is every time you apply the brakes, or maybe there’s a strange noise coming from the engine when you enter fourth gear?

Whatever your problem, you can now ask an impartial expert for free advice! Just follow these simple steps to ask your question:

How To Ask for Free Expert Advice

  1. Click on the relevant logo below for your make of car;
  2. On the next page scroll down and leave a comment with your question for our expert;
  3. Make sure that the option “Let me know when someone replies to my comment” is checked so that the expert response is emailed to you;
  4. Enjoy your free expert advice!

Motorcheck Ford Mechanic

John Sexton

Toyota Mechanic

Toyota Mechanic

VW Mechanic

VW Mechanic

BMW Mechanic

BMW Mechanic

Opel Mechanic

Opel Mechanic

Nissan Mechanic

Nissan Mechanic

Audi Mechanic

Audi Mechanic

Skoda Mechanic

Skoda Mechanic

Renault Mechanic

Renault Mechanic

Peugeot Mechanic

Peugeot Mechanic

About the Panel:

This panel of expert mechanics has been selected by Motorcheck to answer your questions directly free of charge. Each member currently works as a senior mechanic at a leading main dealership and represents the best the industry has to offer in their chosen brand. To find out more about an individual in detail, simply click on the relevant logo above.

If you have a question for a manufacturer that’s not currently represented above, please leave a comment below. We may be in the process of appointing someone to that position and will use your comment as their first question.

Other Posts we've Written on This Topic

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  3. Free €20 Topaz Gift Card For Motorcheck.ie Customers

    Use your Motorcheck.ie fuelcard to purchase a minimum of 500 litres in a three month...

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    If you're someone who chooses to have your car serviced at an independent garage (by...

38 comments so far

Reply
gavin foley
February 10, 2010 at 10:08 pm #

I really just have a query. I dropped my car in to have my timing belt done the other day but the mechanic broke the bottom pulley. He says he needs to re-bore something but all in all i’d need a new engine as it’s impossible to re-bore it. He has told me i have to pay for all this which is amounting to over 1000 euro. I drive a honda hrv jeep 04. Can someone explain to me am I completely liable for the cost? He broke it. Excuse the mech terms I’m a beginner.

Reply
Shane Teskey
February 12, 2010 at 1:37 pm #

Hi Gavin, if your mechanic damaged something on your car then he’s responsible for fixing it.
Every garage should be properly insured against faulty workmanship and carry professional indemnity & liability cover. This protects the garage and you should anything unforeseen occur whilst the car is in their possession.
I’ve written more about this in a blog post here which you may find useful.

Reply
john daly
February 14, 2010 at 8:02 am #

Hi, I will make a long story short here to explain my situation. Damaged my engine in flood water. Rang insurance and was covered. Took to main dealer who could not find a engine for the car. Sourced a reconditioned one in England off an engine company. It was delivered to the workshop fitted and next thing I know I’m being told the engine is seized and not reconditioned. Got on to company and eventually got the right engine which was fitted and perfect. I’m being billed now for fitting and removing two engines. Rang English company and they say engine should have been turned on the ground. Mechanic says I supplied the engine so it’s my problem. Any opinions on this??? Is it proceedure to check engines before fitting?

Reply
Shane Teskey
February 15, 2010 at 2:11 pm #

Hi John,

I would have thought that the mechanic would have tried the engine first before going to the trouble of installing it. Have you tried reasoning with him? He did after all get the job of replacing one engine and in this environment every bit of work counts! Is he operating out of a main dealer?

Reply
john daly
February 15, 2010 at 11:03 pm #

he is the head mechanic with a main dealer but i dont think he was personally working on it just in charge. You know the way they work.

Reply
James
February 16, 2010 at 2:48 am #

Hi

I have a Renault Megane 00 5-door hatchback and have a list of thing that I think need repairing and fitting
I have comprised a list of parts and symthoms. Would you think that they are acceptable remedies?

Renault Megane 00 5-door hatchback

Clutch Cable: Cluth pedal seems to be a bit heavy , and smoother when cable is lubricated

Possible Gearbox Mount?. Gear stick shakes/pulls when accelerating/ deccelerating

A few dashboard lights, maybe 2-3: Not essential but if its not an awkward job will get fixed.

Front shocks: A knocking sound coming from the wheel areas when going over uneven ground.

And finally what would be the reason if fuel is being consumed faster than usual, maybe related, but sometimes when i start the car the revs go high or go low as to cut out. Plugs maybe?

Any advice is very much appreciated as I know theres alot there.

Regards
James

Reply
Shane Teskey
February 19, 2010 at 7:18 pm #

Hi James, some tips below from a friendly Renault garage. Of course they’d need to actually inspect the car to get a proper diagnosis but it might put you on the right direction.

Clutch Cable: Cluth pedal seems to be a bit heavy, and smoother when cable is lubricated
TRY DISCONECTING CABLE AND CHECKING FREE TRAVAL. SHOULD HAVE NO RESISANCE. IF NO RESISTANCE THEN MORE THAN LIKELY NEEDS A CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE

Possible Gearbox Mount?. Gear stick shakes/pulls when accelerating/ decelerating
CHECK ALL ENGINE AND TRANSMITION MOUNTS

A few dashboard lights, maybe 2-3: Not essential but if its not an awkward job will get fixed.
6 BULBS AND STANDARD LABOUR CHARGE TO REPLACE SHOULD BE 45 MINUTES

Front shocks: A knocking sound coming from the wheel areas when going over uneven ground.
POSSIBLE ANTI ROLL BAR BUSHINGS

And finally what would be the reason if fuel is being consumed faster than usual, maybe related, but sometimes when i start the car the revs go high or go low as to cut out. Plugs maybe?
SO MANY DIFFERENT COMPONENTS THAT COULD CAUSE THIS FAILURE, SHOULD HAVE A TECHNICIAN RUN A DIAGNOSTIC CHECK ON IT FIRST

Reply
Gav
February 24, 2010 at 10:35 am #

Just a quick question. Brought car in to have work done but the mechanic said he couldnt complete the job as he had difficulty getting parts off the car. But yet he still charged me for labour on the car even though nothing was really done. Is he right to charge. I felt like i went to a shop and paid for an item that i couldnt actually take home.

Reply
Shane Teskey
February 25, 2010 at 4:24 pm #

Hi Gav,

You should seek a written receipt or invoice detailing the work done on the vehicle for which you are being charged. If you have doubts that the charges are valid you should contact the National Consumer Agency to discuss your rights in such a situation: http://www.nca.ie.

Reply
Shane Teskey
February 25, 2010 at 4:24 pm #

Hi Gav,

You should seek a written receipt or invoice detailing the work done on the vehicle for which you are being charged. If you have doubts that the charges are valid you should contact the National Consumer Agency to discuss your rights in such a situation: http://www.nca.ie.

Reply
Tim
March 4, 2010 at 4:14 pm #

I have an Opel Meriva. There is a loud scraping noise coming from the front left wheel. The sound stops when i brake. I think it may be the front disk being worn down. There is no difference in the braking ability of the brakes despite the sound. I noticed recently when turning right around there is a sound. There is no smoke or discharge around the brake of wheel when stopped. The noise is not there all the time. On short journeys (up to eight miles it does not appear however after this it is quiet evident.

Reply
Shane O'Donoghue
May 12, 2010 at 3:55 pm #

Hi Tim,

This is unlikely to be anything major, but we’d urge you to have a mechanic look at it as soon as possible anyway. He should be able to spot the problem by just taking the wheel off.

Based on your diagnosis we doubt it’s a worn disc. It’s more likely to be a loose clip or heat shield.

Do get it looked at though: you don’t mess with brakes.

Shane

Reply
amanda
March 13, 2010 at 11:00 pm #

Hey,

I drive a 03 Opel Astra. Bought the car a few years ago, never an ounce of trouble. I dropped it into my mechanic over 2wks ago to get a routine service and a timing belt kit fitted. He took nearly a week to do the work. Said that the treads on the crankshaft was damaged from before and that he had an awful job getting the bolt out of the bottom pulley that the fan belt sits on but got a tool to get it out. Fitted the timing belt kit and put stud lock on a ‘new bolt’ and said the job was 100%. I paid him well for that job plus I bought the kit myself. I asked would it be alright and he said it would be grand. Next day after I got home from college, an awful banging was coming from that same area so I left the car off and he towed it down to the garage. He said that the stud lock didnt work and the bolt came loose, which wore the metal washer away, causing the pulley to bang. He said he’d fix it. Got the car back yesterday afternoon plus another bill!! He said he put stud lock plus spot welded the bolt. He also replaced the pulley with a 2nd hand one. I didnt hand over the money at the time. I noticed that there was a clicking noise and the pulley was slightly swaying when I got home from him. (Only 10mins from his house) Went to a soccer match yest eve, on the way home, an awful noise came out of the car like something was dragging on the road. The whole car switched off, the battery light in the dash came on and I pulled in straight away. Looked under the bonnet, the pulley was no longer there and the fan belt was sitting on the floor of the car. Got in contact with him. I told him I wanted to leave the car there until today but he was extremely anxious to get it towed to his garage. I called out to the house today to pick up a spare car. I told him I wasnt paying him again for a job I had already paid him for in the first place. He said it wasnt his fault.. He wanted to sell me the spare car, which isnt to decent for 200 and he’d fix my car for free. I declined. So the car is in his garage at the mo. Can you tell me how a previously healthy car that never had any problems at all has tuned into this? The pulley, belt, everything is mangled.. Surely he is in the wrong as I paid him initially to fit a timing belt kit plus service and now this has hapened, twice.. What do you think of the situation or what could I do or who could I talk to? Sorry for he long msg but Im trying to gain as much advice as possible. Thanks a mill for taking the time to read this.

Reply
Shane Teskey
May 12, 2010 at 3:05 pm #

Hi Amanda, we put your question to our experts and posted the reply online here

Reply
kelly
March 14, 2010 at 10:29 am #

Hi,
HELP really needed! My renault scenic 51 reg snapped cam belt which in turn ruined valves ect..was told it would cost around £1400 to repair in the garage.I have used a mobile mechanic for minor things on my car and he told me it would be cheaper to have a new engine put in.

He said that they could do it if I supplied the engine and gave me a reasonable price. I found an engine and one of the mechanics workers came out and fitted it. As soon as we drove the car we knew it wasn’t right. I drove the car for about 10 mins and then the car started revving and wouldnt move. I had to call the AA out to tow the car back to the house.

I called the mechanic and they came back out. Turns out that they had “forgot” to put oil in the gearbox.They put the oil in and said it should be fine.Three days later the car got stuck in gear and would not move. AA came out again and lifted the car back to the house. Spoke to mechanic again and he said it could of just been that the gearbox was on its way out anyway but as he was such a nice person he would supply a gearbox if i paid a small amount for them to fit it. I agreed to this and he sent a different mechanic out to do it. When it was fitted we tested the car and there was something wrong with the gearbox. This second mechanic told us that the first mechanic had messed the gearbox up in the first place and that we should not be paying for anything.

I didnt pay him and spoke to the boss and said that there was still a problem. He told me he would get another gearbox sorted out but that I had to pay to have it fitted! It has now been nearly 2 months and still it has not been done. I have rang repeatedly but have now been told that the boss is in hospital and they have to wait for him. I am at a loss as what to do now.

Any suggestions? Really am despairing.

Regards
Kelly

Reply
Shane Teskey
March 15, 2010 at 7:30 pm #

Hi Kelly,

That’s a real dilemma you’re in. Is the garage you’re dealing a member of any representative body like the SIMI? If so I’d consider making a complaint directly to the SIMI who may be able to arbitrate for you.

Failing that I’d call the National Consumer Agency at 1890 432 432 and outline your case directly to a representative. These areas can be quite complicated (especially as you supplied the engine yourself) but the NCA will have the advise you’re looking for.

Let me know how you get on!

Reply
Carolann
March 18, 2010 at 3:22 pm #

I had a new fanbelt fitted to my 05 Mazda 6, 3 days ago. The reason for changing the fanbelt was that there was a constant noise coming from it. The same evening while driving the car the steering wheel refused to turn. After parking the car it was discovered that the fan belt had fallen off. I have taken the car back to the original repairer and they now tell me that the car requires a fan belt tentioner at a cost of E330.00. Can someone tell me if this was a result of the fan belt being improperly fitted? Was it not possible for the mechanic to see that the tentioner also needed replacing while fitting the new fan belt. I feel I am being given the run around?

Reply
Shane O'Donoghue
May 12, 2010 at 3:52 pm #

It doesn’t sound like the mechanic is giving you the run-around. It would not always be obvious that the tensioner needed replacing. It’s likely that’s what was causing the noise to begin with and the belt would have been changed at the same time.

The price of €330 for the work sounds expensive though. It’s less than an hour’s work.

Shane

Reply
Mike
March 20, 2010 at 7:15 pm #

I own a ‘95 BMW M3 and recently brought it to an indepenent BMW specialist to replace 4 rear axle bushings (2 each side). A few hours after I dropped the car off I recieved a phone call from the garage to inform me that when they removed a bolt which holds the axle to the car body that the part off the body collapsed due to rust and it would require welding, a job they cannot perform. I brought the car to a main dealer who have informed me that it could cost thousands to fix if it is at all fixable. Where do I go from here? Who is liable for these costs?

Reply
emma
March 23, 2010 at 1:22 pm #

There were little drops of oil leaking from my car when I left it in to be fixed. The mechanic said that a gasket for the oil filter was cracked and needed to be replaced as well as a valve. That was last week – I have the car back 5 days now and it’s still leaking oil and now the water pump has gone as well!

I took the car back to the mechanic but he said it’s nothing to do with what he done..is there anything i can do? I’m 300 euro down and still have a broken car.

Reply
Shane Teskey
March 23, 2010 at 9:36 pm #

Hi Emma,

I can sympathise with your problem. Maintaining a car can be costly and there’s nothing like a persistant oil leak to drive you round the bend. If you drop me a line with the area you’re living in I’d be happy to recommend a local mechanic for you.

Reply
emma
March 24, 2010 at 12:29 pm #

I live in ballycullen dubln 24…thanks for your reply…one more question if you dont mind my water pump went this morning has that any thing to do with what the mechanic did…i had it serviced 5 months ago and everything was fine..the mechanic is adament that it has nothing to do with him and i really dont know anything about cars..i think he has done real damage to it,If he has can i do something about it surly they cant be allowed do this…thanks again for your reply

Reply
Nell
April 22, 2010 at 5:55 pm #

Hi, I drive a ‘99 audi A6 2.5tdi that failed the nct twice. The only major issue..leaking oil.

I put it through without doing anything the first time, it failed. My mechanic said without taking the engine apart and incurring major costs, it could not be fixed simply. It drips a couple of drops a day, I do a lot of milege, so need to put oil in every 6 weeks or so. So before the re-test, mechanic cleaned the whole engine down, and completed a temp seal job where he could..it looked like new! But he said it spluttered a little oil underneath after he tested it on road. I powerwashed underbody 30min before nct, and it failed! Too late for another re-test to add insult to injury!

I know these cars are renound for oil leaks.. could I get some advice from someone whos been through this..cheers! Also, driver door handle (outside) giving me trouble since today, door will only open after about 30 tries.

Reply
Shane Teskey
May 13, 2010 at 3:41 pm #

Hi Nell,

I put your question regarding the oil leak to our expert Shane O’Donoghue. You can read his advice here http://www.motorcheck.ie/blog/failed-nct-test/.

Thanks for visiting!
Shane – Motorcheck.ie

Reply
Neil
May 12, 2010 at 10:39 pm #

I have a ‘03 Volvo S80 2.4 petrol with 215K miles on the clock.
Recently. the instrument panel looses power intermitently, ie the fuel, rev counter, temp etc gagues shut down for long periods. Doesn’t seem like a fuse problem as it comes back at intervals. The problem does not interfere with the indicators or lights.

Any suggestions ?

Reply
Shane O'Donoghue
May 14, 2010 at 3:34 pm #

Hi Neil,

This sort of problem could be difficult to get to the bottom of, but you really need to take the car to a qualified auto electrician. It could be something as simple as a loose connection to the instrument cluster. Have you had any work done on this recently?

Reply
Neil
May 14, 2010 at 7:17 pm #

No.
Many thanks for your prompt reply – brilliant service … well done.
Neil

Reply
Mischa
June 9, 2010 at 12:00 pm #

Hi,

I need to get a new fanbelt on a 2000 Renault Megane. Do you know how much that should cost me (including the part).
Thanks a million (it’s good to know the cost in advance!)

Reply
Shane Teskey
June 11, 2010 at 10:40 am #

Hi Mischa,

Our friends at the Bill Cullen Motor group say 76 euro all in 2000 Megane Saloon/ Hatch 1.4 petrol.

Hope this helps!

Reply
Charlie
July 1, 2010 at 1:31 am #

hi,
inside the forthcoming weeks im am going to buy the Veilside Fortune bodykit which i have been planning on now for some time and thinking about in great detail , it wil cost be over 9 thousand euro for the bodykit which is around 11,000 thousand usd dollars which they are looking for 1,000000 yen, basically 1 million yen =9253 euro. the rx7 i am also looking at which i need is between the year of 93-97. these years only can equip the bodykits. all i need is to my a good quality rx7 around 10000 euro then spend another 9253 euro on the exterior,and another 15 thousand on hks,greedy motor parts.
However, my problem is finding a mechanic that will be able to put this bodykit on the car for me . its rated 4/5 difficulty rating and if i do get the mechanic to do this job , i would also get him to install the new 20b turbo and fuel pump and other likewise accessories.. im living in cavan at the moment and im finding it difficult to find the right mechanic. the body kit includes for starters ♠ kit. Includes front bumper, rear bumper, right left sideskirts, door panels, headlight assembly, rear gate, spoiler, tail garnish, aero mirrors and hood. there is also a lot of interior needed and engine,parts. could you find me a professional mechanic with these high tech facitilites reasonable priced that is reputable please .
Charlie

Reply
Shane Teskey
August 9, 2010 at 8:54 pm #

Hi Charlie,

Did you buy the kit yet? Finding a mechanic to do this kind of specialist work is difficult. I’ll ask around for you.

Reply
Shane Teskey
August 9, 2010 at 9:47 pm #

One recommendation in -

JCR (Joe Crash Repairs) in Limerick is without doubt one of the best in the trade for jobs such as the above. His work is second to none, and rolls out with a factory finish. My 180sx was in for 2 months and was finished to the highest standards. Nothing too difficult. Can be contacted on 0860651912

Hope this helps!

Reply
Chris
July 24, 2010 at 3:35 am #

Hi,

I have a peugeot 407 1.6 sw. A light has come on telling me Particle filter additave level to low. How much would it cost to refill the additave and reset the counter? I think it has to be reprogrammed also does the wiring to the diesel cap have to be replaced? Can I still drive the car?

Another problem is the fan it does not seem to be working.

Chris.

Reply
Shane O\'Donoghue
August 9, 2010 at 8:32 pm #

Hi Chris,
I spoke to Bluebell Motor Company in Dublin 12 about this on your behalf and they were hugely helpful.
The work involved is about three hours. It includes replacing the particulate filter itself, adding the fluid and resetting the engine’s computer brain. The exact price will depend on the specifics of your car, but a good estimate is just under €1,000 including VAT.
We’d need a little more information on the issue you have with the fan. Do you mean the car’s ventilation system or the engine cooling fan?

Reply
terry
August 7, 2010 at 8:10 pm #

Hello,
I’m building a mid engine buggy with an audi 80 2 litre elctronic distribitor i want to change to points what bosch points distribitar will fit? Thanks, Terry.

Reply
stephen
August 15, 2010 at 10:19 pm #

Hi, i know little to nothing about cars but need some help please. I drive a 1996 (I know old) Toyota Carina 1.6 SLI. Recently I noticed when either driving or stopped that the car is shaking as if if is about to cut out. Some people are saying I might need a new clutch but again I know nothing about cars. Could someone help me?

Also does anyone know a trustworthy mechanic/dealership in the blanchardstown/city centre area and any idea on how much a clutch is to replace if that is the issue?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

Reply
Shane O'Donoghue
August 17, 2010 at 4:49 pm #

Hi Stephen.

Your description really doesn’t sound like a clutch problem. To prove that, while at a standstill take the car out of gear and take your feet off the pedals. If it’s still ’shaking’ then that rules the clutch out. It could be a number of things, some quite small and inexpensive like a spark plug lead or spark plug. I’d suggest you bring it to a qualified mechanic to look at it before you decide what to do.

Reply
Shane Teskey
August 17, 2010 at 4:54 pm #

Hi Stephen,

They’re not in Blanchardstown but MKW Motors on the Baldonnell road (D22) are an authorised Bosch service centre. You could try giving them a call on 01-4595266.

More info at http://www.mkwmotors.boschauto.co.uk/MKW-Motors/Home

Best of luck,
Shane.

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