When it comes to buying a second hand car, the test drive is everything. Here, you not only get to find out if the car suits your driving style, not only do you get to see exactly how much space there is in the cabin and boot, but just as importantly you can give it the once-over to see that it matches the description in the advert, and that it’s all in good condition.
Obviously, most of us aren’t professional mechanics, but there are still a few simple checks you can do that should flag up if there are any mechanical maladies hiding behind the shiny paint and the tempting price.
Insurance
Always check to make sure you’re actually insured to drive the car. If you’re shopping at a dealership, then the dealer’s cover will do the job, but if you’re buying from a private seller, check with your own insurance company before you go, just to make sure.
Engine checks
Put your hand on the car’s bonnet and see if it’s warm. A cold-start can tell you a lot about the health of a car’s engine, so if the seller has been warming everything up before you arrived, they could be trying to hide something.
Once you’ve started the engine, hop out and check the exhaust for signs of excessive smoke. There will always be more vapour from the exhaust on a cold day, but if the smoke is very dark (oil getting past the piston rings) or very white (problems with a turbocharger) then that can indicate trouble ahead.
Listen for a screeching noise that could indicate a worn or dilapidated cam-belt. A high ‘tinkling’ noise coming from the top of the engine could be the sign of a worn timing chain.
Suspension and steering
As soon as you start rolling forwards, go in search of some bumps and lumps. Speed bumps are the best — you’re not trying to damage anyone’s car, so don’t go nuts with the speed, but you want to listen for any squeaks or rattles coming from the suspension or the wheels. A harsh grinding noise can indicate a shot wheel bearing, while clonks from the suspension mean worn dampers.
Now check the steering, which should be responsive and free from slack. Try and get the car up to a good cruising speed where it’s safe to do so — say, about 100km/h, and check carefully for steering vibration. Any shaking sensation at the wheel could be a sign of just some tyres that need balancing, or it could be more serious suspension or steering damage.
Finally, give the brakes a good heave and make sure that the car stops quickly and in a straight line. Make sure that there are no harsh grinding noises.
Gears
If it’s a manual gearbox, the gears should engage cleanly with no crunching, and the clutch should ‘bite’ right in the middle of the pedal travel. Anything other than that indicates a worn gearbox or at the very least a clutch that needs replacing. If it’s an automatic, accelerate briskly to ensure that the ‘box ‘kicks down’ cleanly and smoothly, and check when selecting D that the gear is picked up without any delay.
Electric cars
Make sure that any EV you’re thinking of buying either comes with a verified battery health check, or that the seller doesn’t flinch when you ask if you can have one done. Batteries are actually pretty robust and last for ages, but damage and degrading is possible, and it’s the most important component of the car, so make sure it’s properly checked.
Paperwork
What you want to see is a nice fat folder full of receipts, service invoices, stamps in the service book, and evidence of care and maintenance. If there’s little or no paperwork with the car, be instantly suspicious. In general, it’s a good idea to never buy a car which does not have a full and complete service history.
Get it Motorchecked.
Well, obviously… If you’re looking to buy a second hand car, you should always get a history and background check done by Motorcheck. While second hand car sales aren’t the minefield they once were, the fact is that there are still large numbers of cars being sold which have previously been written-off, or which have large finance sums still outstanding. You need to know if either is the case, and if either is the case, walk away.
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